Been There Done That Too…

Aqaba & Petra

// October 30th, 1996 // Jordan, Passage To Africa

The Gulf of Aqaba leading up to Jordan’s only port, is a fairly narrow waterway with desert cliffs on both sides. At one point in the Gulf you can see four countries: Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. The town of Aqaba appears to be a modern, prosperous sleepy place sharing the end of the Gulf of Aqaba with the glitzy, party haven of Elait, Israel. Leaving Aqaba behind on our way to Petra it doesn’t take long to get to the middle of nowhere. Vast expanses of desert with mountains and not much else. Occasional small dwellings and little to no vegitation. A place only for the hardy.

On our three plus hour drive to Petra we stop at Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum is notable because it was featured in the film “Lawrence of Arabia.” It’s the place where he comes out of the desert. It was a nice little place to take a break, and a few people participated in a brief jeep tour out to see the well where most of the scene was shot. By the little cafe at Wadi Rum was an interesting display of sorts showing how the bedouins live. Proceeding on we reach the town where the ruins of Petra lay hidden. But before we venture to the ruins we have lunch at the Intercontinental Hotel. A small hotel with a very pleasant staff and a very unique view of the rock formations in this area. It’s built practically against them. They look almost like they were made by someone blowing bubbles.

The hotel is also very convenient to Petra. You can walk to the entrance, it’s maybe 300 yards. Once you pass through the gates into Petra you still have about a mile to walk – going in it’s downhill… There are enterprising boys and young men with small horses that for a small fee (and a quick grab if you’re female) will let you ride down to the beginning of the siq, however they are not allowed to take you into the siq. From the entrance of the siq it is still probably a third of a mile walk – downhill, to get to the ruins. Once you enter the siq, it’s shady, quiet, and there are some remarkable sites; old alters and carvings, trees growing out of the rocks half way up the walls, and beautiful layers of color. It’s a pleasant walk.

When you come around the final curve in the siq and see the most famous of the ruins, the Treasury, it’s almost magical. Don’t stop there! Keep walking all the way around to the ampitheater, it amazes me that all of this is carved into the rocks. You can almost imagine the caravans coming through Petra with their wares and the traders bargaining, it must have been a wonderful place to live.

When it’s time to head back up, you’ll probably be hot and tired, so I would suggest hiring a horse once you get out of the siq, however – ladies be warned, the boys will definately put hands where they shouldn’t. It’s the only instance of rude behavior I encountered in Jordan. The Jordanians as a rule where wonderful, charming and gracious (the Egyptians could learn a thing or two from them). If you want to pick up a souvenier or two you have a couple of choices, the peddlers down at the ruins, or there are several stalls at the entrance by the hotel, all reasonably priced.

After leaving Petra we headed back for the ship, on the way our bus driver stopped at a lookout point that had an incredible view of the sunset. It was a perfect way to finish an enjoyable day.

View Untitled in a larger map