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	<title>Been There Done That Too... &#187; Middle East</title>
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	<link>http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com</link>
	<description>Real Life Travel Advice and Tips From a Real Traveller</description>
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		<title>Aqaba &amp; Petra</title>
		<link>http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/aqaba-petra/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/aqaba-petra/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 Oct 1996 04:43:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Jordan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Passage To Africa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aqaba]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gulf of Aqaba]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marco Polo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Middle East]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Orient Lines]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Petra]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wadi Rum]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/?p=42</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Gulf of Aqaba leading up to Jordan&#8217;s only port, is a fairly narrow waterway with desert cliffs on both sides. At one point in the Gulf you can see four countries: Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. The town of Aqaba appears to be a modern, prosperous sleepy place sharing the end of the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Gulf of Aqaba leading up to Jordan&#8217;s only port, is a fairly narrow waterway with desert cliffs on both sides. At one point in the Gulf you can see four countries: Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. The town of Aqaba appears to be a modern, prosperous sleepy place sharing the end of the Gulf of Aqaba with the glitzy, party haven of Elait, Israel. Leaving Aqaba behind on our way to Petra it doesn&#8217;t take long to get to the middle of nowhere. Vast expanses of desert with mountains and not much else. Occasional small dwellings and little to no vegitation. A place only for the hardy.<span id="more-42"></span></p>
<p>On our three plus hour drive to Petra we stop at Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum is notable because it was featured in the film &#8220;Lawrence of Arabia.&#8221; It&#8217;s the place where he comes out of the desert. It was a nice little place to take a break, and a few people participated in a brief jeep tour out to see the well where most of the scene was shot. By the little cafe at Wadi Rum was an interesting display of sorts showing how the bedouins live. Proceeding on we reach the town where the ruins of Petra lay hidden. But before we venture to the ruins we have lunch at the Intercontinental Hotel. A small hotel with a very pleasant staff and a very unique view of the rock formations in this area. It&#8217;s built practically against them. They look almost like they were made by someone blowing bubbles.</p>
<p>The hotel is also very convenient to Petra. You can walk to the entrance, it&#8217;s maybe 300 yards. Once you pass through the gates into Petra you still have about a mile to walk &#8211; going in it&#8217;s downhill&#8230; There are enterprising boys and young men with small horses that for a small fee (and a quick grab if you&#8217;re female) will let you ride down to the beginning of the siq, however they are not allowed to take you into the siq. From the entrance of the siq it is still probably a third of a mile walk &#8211; downhill, to get to the ruins. Once you enter the siq, it&#8217;s shady, quiet, and there are some remarkable sites; old alters and carvings, trees growing out of the rocks half way up the walls, and beautiful layers of color. It&#8217;s a pleasant walk.</p>
<p>When you come around the final curve in the siq and see the most famous of the ruins, the Treasury, it&#8217;s almost magical. Don&#8217;t stop there! Keep walking all the way around to the ampitheater, it amazes me that all of this is carved into the rocks. You can almost imagine the caravans coming through Petra with their wares and the traders bargaining, it must have been a wonderful place to live.</p>
<p>When it&#8217;s time to head back up, you&#8217;ll probably be hot and tired, so I would suggest hiring a horse once you get out of the siq, however &#8211; ladies be warned, the boys will definately put hands where they shouldn&#8217;t. It&#8217;s the only instance of rude behavior I encountered in Jordan. The Jordanians as a rule where wonderful, charming and gracious (the Egyptians could learn a thing or two from them). If you want to pick up a souvenier or two you have a couple of choices, the peddlers down at the ruins, or there are several stalls at the entrance by the hotel, all reasonably priced.<br />
<img class="alignnone" src="http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/bt/photos/jordan/sunset.gif" alt="" /><br />
After leaving Petra we headed back for the ship, on the way our bus driver stopped at a lookout point that had an incredible view of the sunset. It was a perfect way to finish an enjoyable day.</p>
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		<title>Israel</title>
		<link>http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/israel/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/israel/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 27 Oct 1996 03:50:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Israel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Passage To Africa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ashdod]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jerusalem]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marco Polo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mediterranean]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Middle East]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Orient Lines]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wailing Wall]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/?p=40</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After a wonderful day and 2 nights sailing on the Marco Polo, and falling completely in love with the ship and the people who run her, we reach Ashdod, Israel. A fairly non-descript container port for the most part. I did find it fairly interesting thought that Israeli Security checked everyone and their passport personally [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After a wonderful day and 2 nights sailing on the Marco Polo, and falling completely in love with the ship and the people who run her, we reach Ashdod, Israel. A fairly non-descript container port for the most part. I did find it fairly interesting thought that Israeli Security checked everyone and their passport personally and instead of stamping our passport, stamped a piece of paper we had to keep with our passport until they took it back from us at the end of the day. The reason: if you have an Israeli stamp on your passport there&#8217;s a whole list of countries you can&#8217;t enter &#8211; including Egypt and Jordan. I was wondering how they were going to get around that! <span id="more-40"></span></p>
<p>First, let me remark on how nice and hospitable the Israeli people are &#8211; they&#8217;re wonderful (and no, I&#8217;m not Jewish). Second, I don&#8217;t understand why the rest of Israel can&#8217;t get along the way the inhabitents of the Old City do. You have Orthodox Greeks, Arab Muslims, Jews, and Chrisitians all living in a very small confined area &#8211; and everyone coexists very nicely, and respects each others beliefs. All are very quick to point out that any trouble that happens here &#8211; is done by outsiders, and after being there I believe it.</p>
<p>The Old City itself is made up of remarkable twists and turns, cobbled streets and it is very easy to imagine what the Old City was like thousands of years ago. I don&#8217;t think it&#8217;s changed much. One dissappointment though was the Church of the Holy Seplecure was having some extensive restoration done on its domed ceiling, which made it extremely dark inside,                            not to mention we couldn&#8217;t see the artistry in the dome. As we arrived at the Church, one interesting thing we did get to see at the was a processiong of Greek Orthodox Priests preforming a ceremony. After the Church we wound our way around to the Wailing Wall, and after that through the Muslim Quarter. I&#8217;m not sure the Muslim Quarter was a great &#8220;before lunch&#8221; destination, one hallmark of the quarter was it&#8217;s freshly butchered meat hanging in shop windows and doors, and the blood running down the gutter is the alleys. We left the Old City and drove up to the top of the Mount of Olives for lunch at the world famous hotel there.</p>
<p>The short drive there was interesting because of a number of churches and other religious site on the way there. At the top of the Mount of Olives there is a comanding view of Jerusalem, showing the Old City in the foreground with it&#8217;s castellated walls and gold dome, and the sprawling modern Jerusalem with its highrise buildings in the background.</p>
<p>Sidenote: If you go to Jerusalem try the bread &#8211; especially the pitas, and a wonderful round dinner roll with a crisp outside and melt in your mouth inside. I&#8217;ve never had bread this good.<br />
<img class="alignnone" src="http://www.beentheredonethattoo.com/bt/photos/israel/vwfrmolv.gif" alt="" /></p>
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