Been There Done That Too…

Salvador de Bahia

// April 23rd, 2008 // Brazil, Transatlantic Nov'07

The next port of call was Salvador de Bahia. The main attraction in Salvador is the perfectly preserved 16th & 17th city, Pelhurinho. A UNESCO World Heritage site that commands the hilltop overlooking modern Salvador de Bahia. Salvador de Bahia’s close connection to Africa can be seen in the local costumes that the women dress up in for the tourists, and the images also appear in the paintings found all over the city.

In Pelhurinho you will find a charming maze of cobblestone streets that are easy and rewarding to wander around. In addition to the many shops, galleries, and cafes, there are a few incredible old churches well worth a visit, including Largo Cruzeiro de S. Francisco. It gives new meaning to the term “Gilded in Gold.” Almost as impressive as the gleaming gold walls is the wonderful blue tile work near the entry. Next door is the Ordem Terceira de Sao Francisco Church and it’s beautiful facade.

There are plenty of opportunities to shop for everything from jewelry to painting to your usual tourist junk. However, it’s definately not the cheapest place to buy your souveniers. If you’re looking for tourist items, catch a ride from H Stern back down the hill and ask them to drop you at the Market. A short walk along the waterfront from the ship, the Market is filled to the brim with tourist items, and while not the bargain that Fortaleza was, the prices are much better than at the top of the hill.

Be careful leaving the market and walking back to the ship. Walk with others if possible. During our day in Salvador 2 ladies were walking back from the market and right at the terminal building, in front of a security guard, 2 young teenage boys mugged the women stealing their purses. The security guard fired a gun at them and they were caugh by police. But, it’s still not a good way to end your stay in port.

As the story above illustrates, as enchanting as the old city is – the modern area at the bottom of the hill, where the port is, is is not a very nice place. It’s dangerous. Don’t walk around by yourself, and take a taxi – or the the free H Stern bus to get up to the old city and back. While the elevators that run up the side of the hill are intriguing, they’re not worth getting mugged or shot.

Sailing out of Salvador de Bahia is well worth being on deck for. You get a wonderful view of the entire city. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many churches.

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